:root {
  --ocean: #0f2a3a;
  --panel: #163b50;
  --line: #24506a;
  --foam: #e8f1f5;
  --mist: #b7cbd6;
  --paper: #fbfaf7;
  --ink: #1d2a30;
  --ink-soft: #4d6470;
  --link-light: #0b5f7a;
  --accent: #7fd1b9;
  --sea: #081d2a;
  --land: #3a6670;
  --coast: #6d9aa3;
  --serif: "Iowan Old Style", "Palatino Linotype", Palatino, Georgia, serif;
  --sans: system-ui, -apple-system, "Segoe UI", Roboto, sans-serif;
}

* { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; }
body { margin: 0; font: 1.0625rem/1.6 var(--sans); }
body.dark { background: var(--ocean); color: var(--foam); }
body.light { background: var(--paper); color: var(--ink); }
img { max-width: 100%; height: auto; }
::selection { background: #7fd1b9; color: #0f2a3a; }
html { scrollbar-color: #24506a #0f2a3a; accent-color: #7fd1b9; }
.icon-comment { width: 1em; height: 1em; vertical-align: -0.15em; }
.sr { position: absolute; width: 1px; height: 1px; overflow: hidden; clip-path: inset(50%); white-space: nowrap; }
.count, .films { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 0.35rem; color: var(--accent); font-size: 0.9375rem; white-space: nowrap; }
.icon-play { width: 0.7em; height: 0.7em; vertical-align: 0.02em; }
a { color: inherit; text-underline-offset: 0.2em; }
a:focus-visible { outline: 3px solid var(--accent); outline-offset: 2px; border-radius: 2px; }
h1, h2, h3 { font-family: var(--serif); font-weight: 600; line-height: 1.2; text-wrap: balance; }
h1 { font-size: clamp(2rem, 5vw, 3rem); margin: 0.2em 0 0.5em; }
h2 { font-size: 1.5rem; }

.wrap { width: min(72rem, 100% - 2.5rem); margin-inline: auto; }

/* header & footer */
.site-header { background: var(--ocean); color: var(--foam); border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.site-header .wrap { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.75rem 2rem; align-items: baseline; justify-content: space-between; padding-block: 1rem; }
.brand { display: inline-block; padding-block: 0.4rem; font: 600 1.375rem var(--serif); text-decoration: none; }
.brand span { color: var(--mist); font-weight: 400; }
.site-header nav { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.25rem 1.25rem; }
.site-header nav a { text-decoration: none; color: var(--mist); padding-block: 0.25rem; }
.site-header nav a:hover { color: var(--foam); text-decoration: underline; }
.site-header nav a[aria-current] { color: var(--foam); text-decoration: underline; text-decoration-color: var(--accent); text-decoration-thickness: 2px; text-underline-offset: 0.4em; }
.skip { position: absolute; left: 1rem; top: -3rem; z-index: 10; background: var(--foam); color: var(--ocean); padding: 0.5rem 0.9rem; border-radius: 6px; font-weight: 600; }
.skip:focus { top: 0.75rem; }
main:focus { outline: none; }
.site-footer { background: var(--ocean); color: var(--mist); border-top: 1px solid var(--line); margin-top: 4rem; padding-block: 1.5rem 2.5rem; font-size: 0.9375rem; }
.site-footer p { margin: 0.25rem 0; }
.site-footer a { display: inline-block; padding-block: 0.4rem; }
.site-footer a:hover { color: var(--foam); }
.page-head { padding-top: 2.5rem; }
.not-found { margin-top: 1.5rem; }

/* home */
.hero { padding-block: 3rem 1.5rem; }
.years { color: var(--accent); font: 400 1rem var(--sans); white-space: nowrap; }
.lede-meta { color: var(--mist); margin: 0.75rem 0 0; max-width: 40rem; }
.teaser { margin: 0.5rem 0 2.5rem; max-width: 40rem; }
.teaser blockquote { margin: 0; }
.teaser blockquote p { margin: 0; font: italic 400 clamp(1.375rem, 3vw, 1.75rem)/1.35 var(--serif); color: var(--foam); text-wrap: balance; }
.teaser blockquote p::before { content: "“"; color: var(--accent); margin-right: 0.1em; }
.teaser blockquote p::after { content: "”"; color: var(--accent); margin-left: 0.05em; }
.teaser figcaption { margin-top: 0.75rem; color: var(--mist); font-size: 0.9375rem; }
.teaser figcaption a { color: var(--accent); }
.jumps { display: grid; gap: 0.6rem; margin: 0.5rem 0 1rem; }
.badges { display: inline-flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.25rem 0.9rem; }
.lede { color: var(--mist); max-width: 40rem; font-size: 1.125rem; }
.lede p { margin: 0; }
.trips { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(min(100%, 28rem), 1fr)); gap: 1.5rem; }
.trip-card { background: var(--panel); border-radius: 12px; padding: 1.5rem; display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 0.75rem; }
.trip-card h2 { margin: 0; font-size: 1.75rem; }
.trip-card h2 .years { margin-left: 0.4rem; }
.trip-link { text-decoration: none; }
.trip-link:hover { text-decoration: underline; text-decoration-thickness: 1px; }
.meta { color: var(--mist); font-size: 0.9375rem; margin: 0; }
.chips { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.5rem; }
.chips a { display: inline-block; padding: 0.35rem 0.8rem; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 999px; text-decoration: none; font-size: 0.9375rem; }
.chips a:hover { border-color: var(--accent); color: var(--accent); }
.earlier { margin-top: 3rem; }
.plain-list { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.25rem 1.75rem; }
.plain-list a { display: inline-block; padding-block: 0.5rem; }
.plain-list a { text-decoration-color: var(--line); }
.plain-list a:hover { color: var(--accent); }
.more a { color: var(--accent); }

/* route map */
.map { display: block; }
.map svg { display: block; width: 100%; height: auto; max-height: 16rem; background: var(--sea); border-radius: 8px; }
.map-large svg { max-height: 18rem; margin-block: 1rem 2rem; }
.route .land { fill: var(--land); stroke: var(--coast); stroke-width: 0.75; vector-effect: non-scaling-stroke; stroke-linejoin: round; }
.route .here { stroke: var(--foam); }
.route .lbl { fill: #ffffff; font-family: var(--sans); font-weight: 600; paint-order: stroke; stroke: var(--sea); stroke-width: 0.35em; stroke-linejoin: round; }
.route .here-lbl { fill: var(--accent); font-weight: 700; }
.route .grid { stroke: #1d465d; stroke-width: 1; vector-effect: non-scaling-stroke; }

/* trip tiles */
.tiles { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0 0 2rem; display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(min(100%, 15rem), 1fr)); gap: 1rem; }
.tile { display: flex; flex-direction: column; height: 100%; background: var(--panel); border-radius: 10px; overflow: hidden; text-decoration: none; transition: transform 0.2s cubic-bezier(0.16, 1, 0.3, 1), box-shadow 0.2s ease; }
.tile:hover { transform: translateY(-2px); box-shadow: 0 8px 20px rgb(4 16 24 / 0.45); }
.tile:hover .name { text-decoration: underline; }
.tile-map svg { display: block; width: 100%; height: auto; max-height: 9rem; background: var(--sea); }
.tile-text { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 0.2rem; padding: 0.85rem 1rem 1rem; }
.tile .name { font: 600 1.25rem var(--serif); }
.tile .meta { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 0.3rem; flex-wrap: wrap; }

/* country page */
.country-head { display: grid; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr) minmax(0, 22rem); gap: 1.5rem 2.5rem; align-items: end; margin-bottom: 1rem; }
.map-country svg { max-height: 12rem; }
.country-intro { max-width: 44rem; color: var(--mist); margin: 0.5rem 0 1rem; }
.country-intro img { display: block; border-radius: 8px; margin: 0.75rem 0; }
.country-intro p { margin: 0.35rem 0; }
.month { font-size: 1.375rem; color: var(--accent); margin: 2.75rem 0 0.25rem; padding-bottom: 0.4rem; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); text-transform: capitalize; }

/* lists */
.crumbs { color: var(--mist); font-size: 0.9375rem; margin: 2rem 0 0; }
.crumbs a { display: inline-block; padding-block: 0.5rem; }
.country-list, .report-list { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0 0 2rem; }
.country-list a, .report-list a { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.25rem 1rem; align-items: baseline; padding: 0.8rem 0.25rem; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); text-decoration: none; }
.country-list a:hover .name, .report-list a:hover .title { text-decoration: underline; }
.country-list .name { font: 600 1.25rem var(--serif); min-width: 12rem; }
.report-list .date { color: var(--mist); font-size: 0.9375rem; min-width: 4.5rem; font-variant-numeric: tabular-nums; }
.report-list .title { flex: 1 1 18rem; }
.report-list .count, .play { color: var(--accent); font-size: 0.9375rem; }
.who-commented { flex-basis: 100%; color: var(--mist); font-size: 0.9375rem; padding-left: 5.5rem; margin-top: -0.15rem; }
.jump-trip { margin: 0.25rem 0 0; color: var(--accent); font-size: 0.9375rem; }
.trip-heading { margin-top: 2.5rem; }
.trip-heading .years { font-family: var(--sans); font-size: 1rem; margin-left: 0.5rem; }
.pager { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 1rem; margin-top: 2.5rem; padding-top: 1rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
.pager a { text-decoration: none; color: var(--accent); max-width: 48%; }
.pager a:hover { text-decoration: underline; }
.pager a[rel="next"] { text-align: right; margin-left: auto; }

/* reading pages: the ocean header runs on into the title band, then the page turns to paper */
.read-band { position: relative; background: var(--ocean); color: var(--foam); padding: 0.25rem 0 2.75rem; }
.read-band::after { content: ""; position: absolute; left: 0; right: 0; bottom: -1px; height: 14px; background: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 120 14' preserveAspectRatio='none'%3E%3Cpath d='M0 14V8C20 0 40 0 60 7s40 7 60-1v8z' fill='%23fbfaf7'/%3E%3C/svg%3E") repeat-x bottom / 120px 14px; }
.route-strip { display: block; margin-top: 1rem; }
.route-strip svg { max-height: 5.5rem; background: var(--sea); border-radius: 6px; }
.read-band .crumbs { color: var(--mist); }
.read-band h1 { margin: 0.35em 0 0; }
.jump { margin: 0.9rem 0 0; }
.jump-names { margin: 0.5rem 0 0; color: var(--mist); font-size: 0.9375rem; }
.person { padding: 0.9rem 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.person h3 { margin: 0 0 0.35rem; font-size: 1.125rem; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: baseline; gap: 0.25rem 0.75rem; }
.person-list { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0; display: grid; gap: 0.15rem; }
.person-list a { display: inline-block; padding-block: 0.3rem; }
.person-list .meta { display: inline; }
.jump a { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 0.5rem; min-height: 44px; padding: 0.4rem 1rem; border: 1px solid var(--accent); border-radius: 999px; color: var(--accent); text-decoration: none; font-weight: 600; }
.jump a:hover { background: var(--accent); color: var(--ocean); }
.reading { max-width: 38rem; }
.reading .body { margin-top: 2rem; }
.reading .body { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.1875rem; line-height: 1.7; }
.reading .body strong { font-family: var(--sans); font-size: 0.9em; letter-spacing: 0.01em; }
.reading .body .byline { display: inline-block; font-family: var(--sans); font-size: 0.9375rem; font-weight: 600; color: var(--ink-soft); letter-spacing: 0.01em; }
.reading .body a { color: var(--link-light); }
.reading .body img { display: block; margin: 1.5rem auto; border-radius: 6px; }
.reading .body table { border-collapse: collapse; width: 100%; font-size: 1rem; margin-block: 1rem; display: block; overflow-x: auto; }
.reading .body td, .reading .body th { border-bottom: 1px solid #ddd6c8; padding: 0.4rem 0.6rem; text-align: left; vertical-align: top; }
.video { margin: 2rem 0; }
.video figcaption { margin-top: 0.4rem; font-size: 0.9375rem; }
.video figcaption a { color: var(--link-light); }
.video iframe { display: block; width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 16 / 9; border: 0; border-radius: 8px; background: transparent; }
.video > div, .video { border-radius: 8px; }
.video { background: var(--ocean) url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 64 64'%3E%3Ccircle cx='32' cy='32' r='30' fill='none' stroke='%237fd1b9' stroke-width='2'/%3E%3Cpath d='M26 20v24l19-12z' fill='%237fd1b9'/%3E%3C/svg%3E") center 40% / 56px no-repeat; }
.video figcaption { background: var(--paper); padding-top: 0.5rem; }
.comments { margin-top: 3rem; padding-top: 1rem; border-top: 2px solid #e4ddd0; }
.comments h2 { font-size: 1.375rem; }
.comment-list { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0; }
.comment { background: #f3efe6; border-radius: 8px; padding: 0.75rem 1rem; margin: 1rem 0; }
.comment p { margin: 0.25rem 0; }
.comment .who { color: var(--ink); font-size: 1.0625rem; font-weight: 700; margin-bottom: 0.15rem; }
.comment .who .when { color: var(--ink-soft); font-weight: 400; font-size: 0.9375rem; }
body.light .pager { border-color: #e4ddd0; }
body.light .pager a { color: var(--link-light); }
.read-end { margin-top: 3rem; padding-top: 1.5rem; border-top: 2px solid #e4ddd0; }
.next-card { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 0.25rem; padding: 1.1rem 1.25rem; border-radius: 10px; background: var(--ocean); color: var(--foam); text-decoration: none; transition: transform 0.2s cubic-bezier(0.16, 1, 0.3, 1); }
.next-card:hover { transform: translateY(-2px); }
.next-card .label { color: var(--mist); font-size: 0.9375rem; }
.next-card .next-title { font: 600 1.375rem/1.3 var(--serif); }
.next-card:hover .next-title { text-decoration: underline; text-decoration-thickness: 1px; }
.end-links { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0 1.75rem; margin: 1rem 0 0; }
.end-links a { color: var(--link-light); display: inline-block; padding-block: 0.6rem; }

@media (max-width: 48rem) {
  .country-head { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .map-country svg { max-height: 8.5rem; }
}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) {
  .tile { transition: none; }
  .tile:hover, .next-card:hover { transform: none; }
}
@media (max-width: 40rem) {
  .hero { padding-top: 2rem; }
  .trip-card { padding: 1.1rem; }
  .report-list .date { min-width: 3.75rem; }
  .report-list .title { flex: 1 1 0; min-width: 0; }
  .report-list .count { flex-basis: 100%; margin-left: 4.75rem; }
  .who-commented { padding-left: 4.75rem; }
  .read-band { padding-bottom: 1.5rem; }
  .trip-card h2 .years { display: block; margin: 0.2rem 0 0; }
}